Their tuner road-tuned the vehicle after it was pulled off of the dynometer. If I could do it all over again, I would go the opensource route. The engine management tool used was a Cobb AccessPORT V2. The route I ended up going with was a dyno tune from a Southern California shop (Yimi Sport). Each car is different, and fuel grades differ between regions. Not to slam Cobb, or another popular tuner, but their off-the-shelf maps knocked like crazy, and that was with a mild stage 1 tune. The same can be said about Cobb's AccessPORT V2 now that they released their free version of AccessTuner software that allows people like you and me to develop their own maps.Īs a side note, either way (Cobb or opensource) I recommend that you data log the vehicle with whatever tune/map that is "flashed." Most all vehicles knock at some point, and the less they knock - the safer the tune. There is also a plethora of "generic" opensource maps out there that other users have developed for their own vehicles. The end user can learn to tune the vehicle him/herself or pay someone. RomRaider - Open Source ECU Tools | RomRaider / Rom Raider Most people use the Tactrix units or VAG-COMs. IF you have a laptop/PC setup already then it is a sunk cost and all you will need is a cable. HPHĪnother good alternative to the Cobb AccessPORT is an opensource tune. Yes, it's expensive, but it also makes a huge difference in the car's performance. ![]() With it and the larger down-pipe, as mentioned, you can realize more. With only the AccessPort, you can realize some performance gains. Simply put: it provides more power, and if you use that a lot, you'll wear out the parts faster. People who have these report various experiences, and it's probable that user behavior is a bigger factor in lifetime of parts, including the turbo, than the AccessPort itself. If you do pay attention to these things (and: no cheating allowed), then you can get better performance with this optimized tuning. The stock map is meant for people who don't pay attention to the gas they buy, the maintenance on the vehicle, or other issues that can affect performance. It changes the fuel/air mixture as a function of RPM and other engine parameters by programming in a different "map" (meaning, basically, lookup table) of how the engine performs. The AccessPort is the software equivalent of putting a new chip in the Engine Control Unit (ECU) of some other cars. But compared to my new $130 mud flaps I think the ROI is easier to figure with the Cobb AP. If you're going to do any upgrades to exhaust, intake etc then this is the first thing you should buy. If you decided to extract more performance then you will use the monitor function to create log files which contain literally dozens of parameters to allow a shop to tune a map for your car. You can log 0-60 times (mine now does 6.77 seconds which doesn't suck), 1/4 mile, etc. The AP has a "monitor" section which allows you to check things you don't have instruments for - say boost for example. I have tried both and like theirs better than the Cobb, but they are very close. I bought mine from RalliTEK and it came with their proprietary maps. You can put it in stock mode, valet mode (aka, sending my son to the store mode) which uses zero boost and limits rpm to 3500, or anti theft mode. There is no need to hook the green connectors back together for this. The AP will come with other maps which you can actually switch while you drive (keep in mind it is on par with texting while driving). It's kind of like the old owl and the tootsie pop commercials. Mine has gone down but it's because I can't resist doing hole shots. I can't honestly tell you if it has a negative effect on MPG. No question that you will feel it, and that is with no other mods at all. I don't have the exact numbers but it's good for 20 or so horsepower and ft lbs of torque. When it's done you take it all apart (including the green connectors).ĭone. ![]() It first backs up your factory map and then loads on the new map. The AP finds your car and then you select a base map from the list. Then plug the Cobb AP into your OBD2 port (just forward of the hood release) using the cord it comes with. With the ignition on the car will go into test mode (fans run, etc). You dig around and find two green plastic connectors which are normally not plugged in to each other. You start by removing the kick panel over the front passenger foot well. But you'll get over it when you start using it. ![]() I did the Cobb AP as one of my first mods.
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